Valentino vs Mario Valentino: Two Separate Companies, One Shared Name
Two Italian companies sell handbags under the word Valentino, the two are unrelated, and the confusion is old enough to have generated its own case law. One is the Roman couture house founded in 1960; the second is a leather goods and footwear business founded in Naples in 1952. Both are legitimate, both hold documented rights to the name in their own way, and the line between them was drawn by a private contract in 1979, not by a judge. What follows sets out who each company is, what that contract requires, what the recent litigation covered and how it concluded, and how a shopper can tell within seconds which company made a given bag. It is a trademark story rather than an accusation against either side, and nothing below should be read as a finding of wrongdoing. Take it in once and you will not misread a listing again.
Two houses, two cities, two businesses
Valentino S.p.A. is the Roman house founded in 1960 by Valentino Garavani and Giancarlo Giammetti, with its first atelier on Via Condotti. Ownership no longer has anything to do with the founder: he sold the company in 1998, Mayhoola for Investments took control in 2012 for around 700 million euros, and Kering acquired thirty valentino roman stud mini per cent in July 2023, intending to buy the company outright by 2028. Valentino Garavani retired from design work in 2007, showed his final couture collection in January 2008 and died on 19 January 2026 at the age of 93, so nothing in the current bag collection was designed by him. Mario Valentino S.p.A. is an entirely separate company, founded in Naples in 1952 by a man of that name, and still based there, and it is a leather goods and footwear house, not a couture maison. The company sells as Valentino by Mario Valentino, and its claims to have invented the stiletto heel and the women’s moccasin are self-description rather than verified history.
The 1979 agreement that split the name
A coexistence agreement signed in 1979 established which marks each side could apply to which goods, and it remains the document everything else refers back to. It permits Mario Valentino to use Mario Valentino, M. Valentino, Valentino, MV or V on the exterior, provided the full name appears inside the item and on the packaging. The agreement also bars that company from combining V and Valentino on leather goods. In the opposite direction, the contract requires Valentino S.p.A. to use GARAVANI in addition to VALENTINO on its leather goods and in the advertising for them. A separate United States position also applies: Mario Valentino says it has held the American trademark Valentino for handbags and leather goods since 26 April 1971, and legal reporting corroborates that senior-rights point.
Why GARAVANI has to appear
The surname on the interior tag of a bag from the Roman house is a contractual obligation rather than a styling choice. On account of the way the 1979 agreement divided the marks, and in light of the senior US rights position on handbags, Valentino S.p.A. does not present its leather goods under the single word Valentino. Adding GARAVANI is what keeps the mark distinct, which is why the tag and the advertising for bags carry VALENTINO GARAVANI in capitals. Inside the Roman house the same wording doubles as a naming convention: accessories carry Valentino Garavani, and ready-to-wear falls under Valentino and Maison Valentino. That is one company applying one set of standards, not a lower tier and a higher one. The practical upshot is the most useful fact in the entire subject: a bag from the couture house says GARAVANI, and a bag that reads only Valentino outside and Mario Valentino inside is a genuine Mario Valentino, a different company selling at a different price point.
The 2019 lawsuit, and how it concluded
In July 2019 Valentino S.p.A. brought suit against Mario Valentino in the US District Court for the Central District of California, docketed 2:19-cv-6306. Mario Valentino’s counterclaims were dismissed in April 2021. The case itself was settled and dismissed without prejudice on 14 June 2024, with terms that were never disclosed. Dismissal without prejudice matters, since it leaves either side free to raise the matter again. According to reporting, more than ten proceedings, including arbitrations, were still live in Italy, meaning the 2024 dismissal wrapped up a single American case rather than the entire disagreement. The action pleaded the following claims:
- Claims of false advertising and unfair competition.
- Breach of the terms of the 1979 coexistence agreement.
- Handbags said to be lookalikes of the couture house’s designs.
- Alleged unauthorised use of the V mark on leather goods.
The dispute is reported to have escalated from 2017 onward, when handbag advertising began foregrounding the word VALENTINO on its own. Because the case settled, none of it was tested to judgment, and no finding of wrongdoing was made against either company.

A second case, filed in 2022
A separate action pointed the other way and drew in a third party. In October 2022 Mario Valentino S.p.A. brought a claim against Fashionphile Group LLC in the Southern District of New York, docketed 1:22-cv-08984. The complaint alleged that around four hundred handbags had been listed on the resale platform as VALENTINO when they were in fact goods of Valentino S.p.A. That case’s outcome is not verified here, and it should not be reported as settled in either direction. The naming problem is not confined to the two companies: it extends to resale platforms, marketplace listings and anyone who describes a bag in a single word. For a buyer, the lesson is simple: a listing title is the least reliable part of any resale page.
Which shelves each brand actually reaches
Different channels carry the two companies, which clears up a good deal of the confusion. The Roman house sells directly through its own webstore and boutiques and through a defined set of authorised retailers including Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman, Saks Fifth Avenue, Nordstrom, Mytheresa, Net-a-Porter, Farfetch, Selfridges, Harrods and Tessabit. Its one legitimate off-price channel is THE OUTNET, the off-price arm of Net-a-Porter, although the depth of the reductions there cannot be stated with confidence. It is the Naples company’s bags that appear on the shelves of American off-price chains, something verifiable from those retailers’ own brand filter pages. That is why a Valentino bag sale at an off-price chain is seldom what a shopper looking for the couture house actually means. Nothing improper is involved on either side: these are two companies selling their own goods through their own distribution. Observed 2026 market prices for the couture house’s leather goods ran from about $650 for a VLogo Signature clutch in grainy calfskin to $7,900 for an embroidered Panthea, all made in Italy, with Rebag’s data putting average resale retention for the house near 41 per cent.
| Point of comparison | Valentino S.p.A. | Mario Valentino S.p.A. |
|---|---|---|
| Origin | Rome, in 1960 | 1952, Naples |
| Bag branding | Valentino Garavani | Valentino by Mario Valentino |
| What the inside says | VALENTINO, GARAVANI, MADE IN ITALY | Mario Valentino inside and on packaging |
| Usual channels | Own boutiques; Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus, Mytheresa, Farfetch | Off-price retail: Nordstrom Rack, Saks OFF 5TH, TJ Maxx |
Telling them apart in thirty seconds
Start with the inside of the bag, not the outside. On a couture-house bag the interior tag carries VALENTINO and GARAVANI in capitals along with MADE IN ITALY, sewn on all four sides, the font weight consistent and the stamping evenly pressed. A serial number is usually found on a tag inside an interior pocket, but it is not universal, older pieces may carry none, and its absence alone proves nothing. These bags have no date-code system, meaning any guide offering to decode a manufacturing date from the digits is describing something that does not exist. If the outside reads only Valentino while the inside says Mario Valentino, you have a genuine Naples-made bag from the other company. The trap runs both ways: a genuine Mario Valentino bag will fail a Garavani checklist and still be completely authentic, so determine which company made the bag before you ask whether it is genuine.
What this means for shopping
Neither company is the counterfeit here, and treating this as fake versus real misses what is actually going on. If you want the Roman house, search for Valentino Garavani rather than Valentino alone, and check the tag before you look at the price. Should the Naples company’s leather goods suit you, buy them knowingly and enjoy the lower price, which reflects a different business, not a compromised version of the same one. The harm occurs in resale listings and third-party marketplaces that use one word to describe both, precisely the territory covered by the 2022 case. Any pre-owned Valentino bag described only as Valentino calls for clear photographs of the interior tag before money changes hands. Ask for those photographs and a decades-old tangle collapses into a two-second check.